Youth Incorporated Magazine

“Heeramandi: The Diamond Bazaar,” directed by Sanjay Leela Bhansali, is a fascinating new series that thrive into the lives of courtesans in the red-light district of Heera Mandi in Lahore during the British Raj in pre-independence India. This lavish period drama, streaming on Netflix, is Bhansali’s first foray into series format, bringing his signature luxuriousness and intricate storytelling to the small screen. ​It not only highlights the personal and emotional struggles of the women but also integrates their stories with the larger socio-political context of the time, touching on themes of power, betrayal, and the struggle for independence. The series is noted for its rich visual appeal, detailed period settings, and powerful performances, making it a significant addition to Bhansali’s body of work​. 

The series is a source of satisfaction for the eyes and ears, with brilliant elements that promote the storytelling to new heights. From elegant outfits to stunning dance steps, 

here are some of the highlights that took our breath away 

Exquisite Outfits 

The costumes in “Heeramandi” are a sign of the meticulous attention to detail that Bhansali is known for. Each outfit is a piece of art, reflecting the glory and elegance of the era. Designed by Bhansali’s long-time collaborator, designer Neeta Lulla, the costumes blend traditional Mughal and colonial influences. 

1- The ‘Sakal Ban’ yellow hue 

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On the occasion of Basant Panchami in the series, the director selected the colour yellow in the song ‘Sakal Ban’ which created a fashion highlight of the series. Looking like sunflowers, each dancer and the lead actors were seen wearing heavy Anarkalis, layers of sheer, and Banarasi dupatta, with either churidar or flared sharara giving a royal look with matching jewellery. 

2- Bibbojaan’s Banarasi attire 

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Aditi Rao Hydari in the role of Bibbojaan looked beautiful in her classical song when she took on the stage alone wearing a Banarasi floral print flared lehenga in the shade of red and paired with a royal dark blue velvet half-sleeves blouse and sheer golden dupatta that looked subtle on the screen.

3- Mallika Jaan’s entry piece

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Manisha Koirala as Mallika Jaan wore only the best fashionable attire in the entire series, letting the audience know the head and brain of the streets of Heeramandi. In her entry scene, she is seen wearing an ivory-printed lehenga, kurta and dupatta which has multi-coloured accents which take the breath away. As she stands from her chair and has henna applied on her hands and legs, she asks her servants to carry the lehenga for her, showcasing the detailing of the outfit which reflects the sheer beauty.

4- Fareedan’s shimmer sari

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Sonakshi Sinha’s sari collection in the series was wonderful, showcasing the power of earlier times. Bhansali gave her intricate adornment florals with beading and shimmer art which flaunted a rich and royal look. However, Sonakshi Sinha glowed in the shimmer silver sari with a half-sleeved blouse she wore in the song ‘Tilasmi Bahein.’ 

Mesmerizing Dance Sequences 

Dance has always been a central part of Bhansali’s films, and “Heeramandi” is no exception. The series features several breathtaking dance sequences 

• Mallikajaan’s Mujra: Koirala’s Mujra performances are captivating, blending classical Kathak movements with expressive storytelling. Her grace and gloriness highlight her character’s authority and allure.
• Fareedan’s Dance of Vengeance: Sinha’s dance sequences are inclined with intensity and emotion, particularly in scenes where she uses dance as a form of rebellion and empowerment. Her performances are both technically impressive and deeply moving in the ‘Tilasmi Bahein’.
• Bibbo Jaan, performing a Mujra sequence that has gone viral and made the fans crazy on social media. Her “Gaja Gamini” walk in the series is being compared to Madhubala’s iconic Mohe Panghat Pe number from the classic film ‘Mughal-E-Azam.’ She has been praised for her sensuality and grace. Her portrayal reminds how courtesans in the Mughal era used to enchant emperors and nawabs.
• Lajjo performing ‘Massom Dil hai Mera’ her arc was inarguably the shortest, yet left the impact of a sudden storm that imposes devastation within the harmonious framework of the narrative with her mesmerizing dance performance.

Decor and Set Design

The set design in “Heeramandi” transforms viewers to the lavish courtesan houses of the early 20th century. The attention to detail in the decor creates a richly immersive environment, boasting the grandest set he’s ever conceived that took 700 craftsmen and 7 months to bring this colossal vision to on screen.

The central setting of Shahi Mahal is ornate with crystal chandeliers, Persian carpets, and intricate jaali work. The grandiosity of the interiors reflects the wealth and status of its inhabitants, creating a visually appealing backdrop for the drama. Khwabgaah (quarters), a magnificent white mosque, an expansive courtyard, a dancing hall, water fountains, a colonial-style room, roads, shops, smaller kothas, and a hammam, all showcasing the rich arts, crafts and textiles of that era. 

Outdoor Markets and Streets: The bustling streets of Lahore and the vibrant markets are recreated with meticulous detail, capturing the true essence of the city’s cultural melting pot. The originality of these sets enhances the storytelling, making the historical setting come alive.

Soul-Stirring Songs 

Music plays an impressive role in “Heeramandi,” with a soundtrack composed by Bhansali himself. The songs are an integral part of the narrative, amplifying the emotional depth and cultural context of the series. With infectious tunes like ‘Sakal Ban’ and ‘Saiyaan Hatto Jaao’ alongside the deeply emotive ‘Chaudhavi Shab’ and ‘Nazariya ki Maari,’ each song uniquely contributes to the series, touching the hearts of not just Indians but of its international audience too.

1- Sakal Ban

Sakal Ban emerges as a spellbinding symphony, echoing the timeless verses of Amir Khusro, brought to life by the fascinating voice of Raja Hasan. This track isn’t just music; it’s a phenomenon, kindling a frenzy across social media platforms with its alluring charm and captivating visuals. The golden shades of Heeramandi’s leading ladies shimmer in harmony with the melody, casting a spell on all who behold them. 

2- Ek Baar Dekh Lijiye

Ek Baar Dekh Lijiye emerges as a moving epic to love, sung by A M Turaz and composed by the talented Kalpana Gandharva. It epitomizes the essence of forbidden romance, weaving a narrative that draws the heartstrings of listeners. 

3- Tilasmi Bahein 

Tilasmi Bahein mixes emotions of excitement, happiness, and joy, courtesy of the master Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s musical choices in his films. Sonakshi Sinha’s graceful performance adds depth to the soul-stirring composition by AM Turaz, creating an unforgettable experience. 

4- Saiyaan Hatto Jaao 

Saiyaan Hatto Jaao is a stimulating dance of love and longing, masterfully portrayed by Aditi Rao Hydari. Barnali Chattopadhyay’s voice paints a picture of romance, while the lyrics by Sanjay Leela Bhansali and AM Turaz evoke a sense of timeless enchantment.

5- Azadi

Sanjay Leela Bhansali brings his signature grandeur to ‘Azadi’ with heart-touching and goosebump-worthy lyrics by A M Turaz. The musical prowess of “Azadi” is further emphasized by the stellar vocal performances of Archana Gore, Pragati Joshi, Arohi, Aditi Paul, Tarannum, and Aditi Prabhudesai. Embellished with traditional instrumentation such as the dhol and pakhawaj, the song is an original composition by a filmmaker who celebrates freedom and promises to move the patriot in viewers. 

6- Chaudhavi Shab 

One such gem is the lyrical masterpiece, “Chaudhavi Shab” sung by Shreya Ghoshal featuring Sharmin Segal which has resurfaced in popular culture with newfound vigour. This timeless composition, adorned with redolent imagery and soul-stirring emotions, has become a cherished anthem, especially among the youth of India.

“Heeramandi” is a cinematic achievement that exemplifies Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s vision and mastery. It is a celebration of culture, history, and artistry, combining multiple elements to create a cohesive and engaging narrative. The series stands out for its ability to mix the opulent visuals with profound emotional depth, ensuring that it is not just seen but felt deeply by its audience. It is destined to be remembered as a landmark accomplishment in the realm of visual storytelling.